Naples 15

In a word: 15 going on awesome.

The specs: #00986   
15 N. Butler St., 53703
Details at Yelp, official web site, Facebook, Twitter

Latest Naples 15 news and reviews at

JM and Nichole ate the pizza fritti and the quattro formaggi pizza, with a lemonade.
The bill was $40, or $20/person, plus tip.
JM and Nichole gave Naples 15 a B+ (see our grading rubric).

This was our fourth visit to this little resto space tucked underneath Capital Fitness. And while eating dinner as yoga-pant-beclad strangers pad past the interior windows has always been a little strange, Naples 15 seems to be the pizza place that is in this location for the long haul.

The space is (otherwise) romantic. We got a chair by the fireplace, which enhanced the cozy mood. We had the place pretty much to ourselves. Our server was attentive and helpful, without being too much so. This is always a great relief to us.

Pizza frittaWe settled on two pizzas for two, figuring they'd make decent leftovers. The pizza fritti is - fried pizza! Feel free to read that last sentence again. The crust envelops the cheese and sauce as in a calzone, but the thinness of the crust here was a revelation. It was delicious, in that way that something fried can be both light and filling. Inside were soft cheese and salty ham. The more traditional quattro formaggi arrived second and was good as well, though it was following a hard act. Its blend of cheeses and a little greenery was simple enough to let the stellar, simple crust shine.

Quattro formaggi

This 'za showed how the pizza market is basically in three parts in Madison: the Neapolitan-style pizza market (including this, Porta Alba, Novanta and Pizza Brutta), the traditional pizza market (which covers a lot of ground from Sal's to GNP to common delivery), to the novelty pizzas (Ian's most notably).  The thing is that all of the Neapolitan places are very, very good and this is no exception.  East-siders, rejoice then. This is the one that is closest to you.

Bonus book bit: Sunshine Supper, & an event

Hey! Wednesday night, 1/6/2016 at 7:15pm, come to the Goodman Community Center, 149 Waubesa St., for our talk "Here Yesterday, Gone Today: A Flight of Madison Restaurant Lore" for CHEW - the Culinary History Enthusiasts of Wisconsin. Free and open to the public; there will be snacks; new members and food pantry donations most welcome. Now, a bonus post.

Lots of words didn't fit into Madison Food. Here are some more of our favorites that we didn't want to be missed. This piece on Sunshine Supper, Sun Prairie's free community meal, is based on interviews and a meal on March 17, 2014. Sunshine Supper was more recently in the news in August 2015 when Buck & Honey's stepped up to serve a last-minute meal.

Sun Prairie, just northeast of Madison, is a rapidly growing city of about thirty thousand residents. It hosts a Sweet Corn festival that draws over 100,000 visitors each August. It’s the birthplace of Georgia O’Keeffe and the home of Wisconsin’s own weather prognosticator, Jimmy the Groundhog. In January 2010, Sun Prairie also saw the beginning of Sunshine Supper, a volunteer-run program that provides a free hot meal on Monday nights to anyone in the community.

Though it has served almost ten thousand plates of hot food in its first four years, the event does more than simply feed the hungry. It also quite effectively creates and sustains a real community. The experience is that of the most hospitable church basement supper imaginable. Inside the bright, spacious dining room on Main Street, Sunshine Supper’s fourth home since 2010, the feeling of friendship and joy is evident on a typical Monday night. A host greets guests at the door and invites them to pick up a dinner, find a seat, and relax for an hour or so. Someone might sing or play the upright piano as others dine. Near the end of the meal, there’s a pause to sing “Happy Birthday” and give a whole cake to each guest celebrating a birthday that week. Every kid in attendance is invited to choose a book to take home for keeps from a lovingly curated collection.

Books at Sunshine SupperSunshine Place, the supper’s parent organization, also runs a food pantry and thrift store and helps bring together the resources in the community to make these meals happen. Every year, 45 sponsoring groups provide the weekly meals and bring together more than 2,000 volunteers to serve. The event is wildly popular with the civic organizations, churches, and sports teams who host it, and the annual schedule fills up quickly.

The unique thing about Sunshine Supper is that the artificial boundary between giver and receiver is gone; here, everyone is a guest and the volunteers eat too. Julie Wiedmeyer, coordinating chair, emphasized that the organization set out to erase that distinction by having volunteers trade in their aprons for napkins halfway through each meal.

The meal was served at the Sun Prairie Masonic Lodge for the first year. There were about twenty-five guests and almost twice that number of volunteers at their first supper. The Masonic Lodge worked especially well through summertime, when grilling out was an easy and fun option. In early 2011, a great opportunity arose to renovate part of a local warehouse into a kitchen and dining space. Community members put in a great deal of sweat equity and new materials into the project, but tragically, less than a month after opening, they received notice that the warehouse operator was shutting down and they would have to abandon the space. Sun Prairie United Methodist stepped up to house the supper for the next two years, though the disappointment with the need to move was challenging.

But then, in spring of 2013, Sunshine Place purchased a retail building on Main Street near its headquarters. Another major remodeling project was undertaken to break down the walls between several small business spaces. Sunshine Supper’s permanent home boasts a beautiful floor of donated linoleum tiles that resemble a patchwork quilt in both form and symbolic meaning. The walls sport colorful collaborative paintings. The folding tables stay up from week to week now, and when supper’s not on, the space is happily used by other community groups.

The event grew primarily through word-of-mouth, with very little advertising or promotion at all other than a mailing to local schools. Groups in neighboring communities began to organize their own suppers. In March 2012 in McFarland, just southeast of Madison, Shared Table Free Community Meals began serving weekly at McFarland Lutheran Church. Cambridge Community Cafe started up in January 2013 on Thursday nights in a village on the Jefferson County line. And in January 2014, Stoughton’s Gathering Table hosted two Monday-night meals per month at the Stoughton Senior Center.

Sharing a meal, it seems, is an easy way to grow community and meet your neighbors and your neighbors' needs. While helping others is the main course, side dishes of civic engagement, fun, and laughter help everyone feel more at home, wherever they live.

Sunshine Supper desserts


NaniIn a word: Dim sum, lose none.

The specs: #00985   
518 Grand Canyon Dr., 53719
Details at Yelp, official web site, Facebook, Twitter

Latest Nani news and reviews at

Anne, Caroline, Darby, Dave, Evy, Isaac, JM, John, Joshua, Miles, Nicholas, Nichole, Paul, and Simon ate the deep-fried dough sticks (x3), water spinach with garlic, and dim sum: Nani's shrimp dumpling, pork & shrimp dumpling (x2), shrimp dumpling with green chive, beef ball, short rib with pepper sauce, short rib with honey sauce (x2), beef brisket & rice noodle roll in pot, pan-fried water chestnut cake, deep-fried pork dumpling, pan-fried vegetable & pork bun (x2), pan-fried pot sticker (x2), deep-fried crab meat & seaweed roll, deep-fried sesame ball, pan-fried corn & pork cake, pan-fried green chive cake, beef crepe, BBQ pork crepe, BBQ pork bun (x3), mango pudding (x4), red bean pudding, and tea.
The bill was $215, or $15/person, including 18% large-party gratuity.
Darby, JM, and Nichole gave Nani an A-; Dave gave Nani a B+/A-; John gave Nani a B+ (see our grading rubric).


It's a dim sum place, so we took a big crowd. 14 people, including several smaller folks, to be exact.  And here's the thing: almost everything we got was gone by meal's end. Only a lonely beef ball remained. That says something about the quality of the eats right there. Without providing a lot of overwhelming narrative, let's just say "highly recommended" and run down our notes on what we got.

Deep-fried dough sticksSesame ballsShrimp dumplingsShort ribsVegetable & pork bunShort ribsDeep-fried pork dumplingSiu maiFrittersRed bean puddingSticky rice in lotus leafMango pudding

  • The service is great, and it needs to be. Lots of food items will hit the table over and over, and the servers did a great job keeping the food hot and the crowd happy.
  • The picture menu is essential and thoroughly useful, though the instructions weren't the best, as we were unsure if we should use hash marks or regular numbers (Phoenician numerals, says JM).  Wanting 2 of something is way different than wanting 11.
  • As a group we had two favorites: beef brisket & rice noodle roll in pot.
  • The thick rice noodles were amazing, and are required for any visitor to Nani.
  • The water spinach with garlic was a great choice as a lighter counterpoint to what was mostly a heavy, oily (but delicious) meal.
  • If you didn't mind greasy fingers, the short ribs were quite tasty.
  • The pan-fried water chestnut cake was a revelation: hot sweet jello with water chestnuts gave the whole item a fun texture that surprisingly good.
  • Familiar fan favorites (pork buns & pot stickers) were - familiar. Also, tasty, as usual.
  • The pork buns, in particular, were light and cloudy and a tiny bit sweet. Mmmm.
  • The pan-fried cakes were like fritters. That's a very good thing.
  • The crepes were also hearty: they were slippery and rolled around delicious diced fillings.
  • The desserts here are just OK for what we tried.
  • The mango pudding was large and jello-y with diced mango and fancy whipped cream.
  • The red bean pudding was coconut b/w red beans.

There was talk at the table of whether Nani was better than Estrellon, which is as close to heresy in the Madison food scene gets. In terms of little dishes, passed around for enjoyment, there's likely no way to get out of Estrellon for $15/person (but we haven't been, so we can't say). The hit-to-miss ratio was really good here too, and a picture menu helped that. Odana has always been Madison's home for culinary diversity (we believe it's true that Bahn Thai*, Sa-Bai Thong, Maharaja, Los Gemelos, Saigon-Noodles, VIPs, La Michoacana, and Ginza have all had homes there over the years). Nani is the best place that's been in this location in over 20 years; we hope to enjoy them again and again.

Lonely meatball

*Bahn Thai had a location on University Ave., not Odana. Thanks for the heads up, NS!


Madison Food coverOur book Madison Food: A History of Capital Cuisine is out.
Updates here, and some bonus bits on Porchlight, Argus, and Sunshine Supper.


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